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Tap the project that looks like yours and we'll point at the right can, with the real price next to it. Two minutes, no guessing.
7 × 12 × 4 ft, about one parking space, 2 tons of disposal included. From $375 for 1 to 3 days. Low walls, easy hand-loading, driveway-friendly.
7 × 16 × 4 ft with 3 tons included, from $440. Same low walls as the 10 with four more feet of box, right for projects that outgrow one room.
7 × 16 × 5 ft, 3 tons included, from $469. The honest answer for most whole-house and roofing jobs. Roofs: check the shingle calculator if you're over 20 squares.
8 × 16 × 7 ft, 4 tons included, from $520. The builder's box: weeks of debris, swapped as it fills. Mind the 7-foot walls and overhead clearance.
When someone calls unsure, Ryan asks one question: if you hauled it yourself, how many pickup truck loads would it take? Three or four loads is the 10-yard. Six or seven is the 15. Eight to ten is the 20, and past that you're in 30-yard country. It works because people can picture a truck bed a lot easier than they can picture cubic yards.
These fill on volume, not weight. Old furniture, boxes, bikes, and yard tools eat space while the scale barely moves, so the 10-yard usually covers a single-bay garage and the 15 handles a two-car garage that hasn't been touched in a decade. The 10-yard's four-foot walls matter more than people expect here, because everything gets lifted in by hand.
A single bathroom is 10-yard work. A kitchen gut is a different animal: cabinets, countertops, appliances coming out, flooring, and usually some drywall. That lands on the 20-yard, and if tile is coming off the floor, the weight climbs faster than the pile does.
Carpet and pad from a whole house fits a 15-yard easily on volume, but wet or old carpet is heavy, and tile or hardwood over a large footprint pushes toward the 20.
Roofing is a weight problem, not a space problem. A roof rarely fills a can, but shingles are dense enough to hit the tonnage cap well before the walls fill up, and layered roofs double the math. Run the numbers through the shingle calculator before you book; it sizes by squares and tells you when the overage on a smaller can costs more than stepping up.
The 20-yard is the usual answer, with the caveat that these jobs are unpredictable. If the house has been lived in for forty years, plan for a swap rather than hoping one can does it. Swaps are same-day when the call comes in before late afternoon.
The 30-yard exists for debris that keeps coming for weeks. Its seven-foot walls need overhead clearance to load, so it wants a job site rather than a tight residential driveway. Most builders run one and swap it as it fills instead of stepping down a size.
It's no problem either way, and it's worth knowing before you agonize over the choice. Order too small and we'll swap the can, which puts an empty one on site the same day when you catch it early enough. Order too big and you've paid for space you didn't need, but nothing else goes wrong.
The expensive mistake is neither of those. It's stuffing a small can past the rail to avoid a swap, because a load above the rail can't be tarped and can't legally leave, so the driver comes back empty and you pull material off by hand. If it's close, size up or call and ask. That conversation takes a minute and Ryan answers the phone himself.
Request it online or call, and a person confirms the details either way.